So it's winter. We get ice storms and heavy, wet snow that brings down limbs, entire trees. As in hurricane season, this weather sends people who have never owned a chainsaw to big-box stores to buy them.
For many, the next stop becomes an emergency room. Or a graveyard.
But this post is not about safety with saws; it's about the saw to buy if you really think you need one. I've been using a chain saw regularly for over 15 years, a blink of any eye by the standards of my wife's family. I'm still too much a novice to fell any tree bigger around than my leg and 30' tall. After that, I call my brother-in-law. Larger trees that fall I do cut up, even making them roll where I want them. That trick for the experienced sawyer is not something to be handled in this post, either.
No, I want to discuss a topic as sensitive as Ford v. Chevy for pickup owners or Deere v. International when it comes to tractors. I'm thinking Stihl v. Husqvarna.
Why these two?
These two brands are considered premium saws; so is Echo, but I've no experience with the brand, though it's been highly recommended to me. Down-market brands might be fine for occasional use, and much of what I recommend would still apply.
Three years back, I switched brands to a "Husky" after I found my Stihls hard to operate in cold weather and fiddly to service. Briefly, there are some strengths and weaknesses for either saw:
- Stihls tend to cost a bit less, and have a larger dealer network in my part of the country.
- Stihls have a reputation for more power in the same size saw.
- Husvarnas are simpler machines, especially the starting method and electrics. I found myself constantly needing to remove the carb cover on my Stihls to adjust things.
- My Stihls were harder to start, and I run all my saws on ethanol-free 93 octane, mixed properly with 2-cycle oil. I run about 3 gallons of gas through my saws and weed whackers each year (operating on average a couple of times monthly for the saws, weekly for the other tools in warm weather).
- Stihls have really weak gas caps that break easily and two bolts to hold the bar that are easily stripped if you over-torque them. Husqvarnas have a single bolt that goes into metal, not plastic.
- My Husqvarna needs more attention to keep the chain tight than did my Stihl. Since it's wise to check the chain regularly, this seems not much of a bother. I stop the saw occasionally, check the chain tension, then adjust as needed.
- The Husqvarna chain-brake system is as safe as Stihl's, but it will break if you try to remove the saw cover with the brake set (I did just that and ordered a new cover).
Much of what I've found has been seconded by another writer. In the end, and despite its caveats, I'll buy another Husky. I'm going to get a slightly larger saw for "bucking and felling" medium trees.
So what about an electric saw? Stihl has a really nice line of light-duty tools that run on batteries. We have one of the weed-whackers.
I'm not sure such a saw would work for me, but they do offer the advantage of not fiddling with gasoline, carbs, or cold-weather starting problems. They can still maim or kill you.
When you use a saw...
Other things I have learned about running chainsaws:
- Most homeowners can do just fine with a 16" bar and a light duty saw for cutting limbs up or fallen logs for firewood. I've only recently moved up to a slightly more powerful saw.
- If you have NEVER used a saw, find out if the extension service offers classes. Here's a sample from New Hampshire. And buy from a dealer, not a big-box. Stihl only sells from dealers. Dealers will start the machine to check function and may give you some free lessons.
- Stop working as soon as you get tired. Otherwise, you may not live to saw another log.
- Invest in sawyer's chaps and a forestry helmet, for God's sake. Spending
another $200 may save you from serious injury or worse.
- One cold-weather tip: bring the saw inside the night before use,
though not into the house. A garage or shed above freezing should do.
- A sharp chain is safer than than a dull one. I bought a bench-top electric sharpener for under $300, and I touch up my saw's chain regularly. I also own a spare chain and swamp them out when one gets dull. If you don't cut as much wood as I do, your dealer will sharpen a chain for a few dollars.
- 93 octane no-ethanol fuel should be the choice, and if it cannot be found, go with 93 and remove all the gas when done sawing. Ethanol forms crystals in the fuel lines of small engines, and its best to run the saw dry to be sure not a drop remains. I run my mowers and weed-whackers on Ethanol-free 93 as well.
- For the very occasional user, Stihl makes this fuel premixed in metal cans. It's pricey but will keep a while. Most folks would not need more than a gallon per year.
- Every year, change the spark plug, filter in the gas tank, and the air filter. These tune-up kits can be found at a dealer or ordered online. Never scrimp on this annual chore.
- When the saw's bar gets worn it's time to replace it. I can find them for around $40. A good bar will ensure better operation and safety. You don't want a chain to jump off a running saw, even with a chain brake to save you.
- Your saw may prove an exception, but don't expect a modern chainsaw to last more than a decade. These modern machines are cleaner and more complex than the 1950s and 60s Pollans my father-in-law used. Those saws had no safety features and scared the hell out of me.
Final word: the next time some old-timer, actual or wannabe, says that old saws were superior, just remind him (it's always a guy) that the hardware store sells new saws but does not stock arms and legs.
